During the past night, a rather
substantial rain poured down, but in the morning the sun has already found its
place on the sky and has chased away most of the clouds. While my
fellow-travelers are still getting ready, I conduct my photo observation of the
streets from above. I like quite much to observe from a high point, people on
the streets are very natural, because they don't see me and therefore are not
camera shy, besides that the point of view is completely different.
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Waiting for the 24A bus to Eminönü, for example |
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A beam of light during the repairs, hopefully it will start
Compared to Bulgaria, at a certain point there were four guys under the hood trying to fix it and just one looking from a distance.
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The side streets represent
another interesting point of view.
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Tin vents vs. Ivy
Which one will get higher or lower?
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While we are trying to figure
out how the cards for the public transport work, an elder couple asks us in
Bulgarian whether we need help. We accept happily their assistance and they
take us to the other side of the boulevard to buy a prepaid card. While we go
through the underpass, going down and up the stairs because of us, they ask us
whether we like the city. They like it too, but it's
nice as long as you are visiting, otherwise it is a bit crazy and it's rather
expensive to live here. I don't remember from which Bulgarian area or city they
are coming from (as they are emigrants from Bulgaria), but I will never forget
how much they had to go out of their way just to help us. And although the sun
is already heating our heads, it was their help that warmed us.
Already having bought a
prepaid card, we embark on a big adventure with the different varieties of the
local public transport. We get on the T1 tram from the Pazarteke station and go
for 15-16 stops. At Kabatas station we transfer to the F1 funicular (a
train/tram that can climb some serious slopes), which I expect with almost
child excitement, imagining an interesting trip and views, but my child dreams
instantly disappear as it is traveling underground. At least the transport now
is for free as it is the first day of school in Turkey. At the Taksim station
we hop on the M2 subway to Sisli Mecidiyeköy (I cannot pronounce this name). I
forgot to mention that the purpose of this exercise is not to use every
possible type of public transport, but to get to the Yildiz park, situated
between the Besiktas and Ortaköy neighborhoods, or in one of them.
We get off the metro and take
upon the goat paths of Besiktas, this is the best way to describe these steep
and narrow streets, which are probably similar to those in San Francisco. While
walking on one of the few leveled streets, the rain starts pouring again and we
quickly find a small café for our first cup of tea/coffee and something sweet. Soon
the rain calms down and once again we take on the goat paths. We ask some
people about Yildiz parki, trying to be as precise as possible of the
pronunciation, but they hardly could understand us. After a moment or two, the
guys repeat the words as I have pronounced them and give us directions. We have
several kilometers. We walk, and walk, and walk, moreover we are going down
from a mountain. We reach one seaside boulevard and stop for a break. We have
another kilometer or two ahead of us, but at least the terrain is flat. I
cannot answer the question why we didn't take a taxi. When thinking about this
park, a famous fable comes to my mind, one about a fox and some grapes that are
sour.
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The goat paths of Besiktas |
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The Asian Istanbul and the Maiden's tower |
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Seaside tunnel of leaning trees |
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In the leaning tunnel |
Unlike me my
comrades-in-arms, which also look that they had enough of walking, seem to be
resolved to try all means to get to the park in question, for which they have
no info whatsoever. With such loyal supporters one can even go to … the Yildiz
park. We reach our first destination, but the fun is never ending – we are at
the lower end of the park, now we have to go up. But that's enough about our
trip, let me tell you something about our destination – when the sultans were
living in the nearby palace, they were coming to this park for a walk or to
hunt deer. The phone guide warns us not to be startled by the courting couple
coming out of the bushes, probably they have been hunting deer or have been
collecting mushrooms. The park is very well maintained with perfect lawns,
benches and playgrounds or at least on the left side of the main alley, because
the right side has grown rather wild. We find a flower-bed with close to ten
stray dogs sleeping on it, probably they have grown after this night's rain. We
borrow our heads to one headless giraffe, at least we haven't lost our sense of
humor somewhere on the goat paths.
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The headless giraffe |
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The hobbit tree
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We find one enormous oak tree, from which is
completely normal to come out not some courting couples, but rather some real
hobbits. While we settle on its branches for a photo, some other people come wishing
to have a picture with the tree. A bride and a groom, and their entourage. We
get off the tree and find a Garfield looking cat next to the nearby bridge.
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Garfield and the caressing one 1 |
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Garfield and the caressing one 2
Garfield thinks that my caressing might be better.
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Garfield and the caressing one 3
Moment of hesitation.
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Garfield and the caressing one 4
Since the tail is erected and the eyes are blissfully closed, it is clear who caresses better.
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Garfield looking for the caressing one
Gimme some more.
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We continue with the walk
around a nice lake and find a pleasant lawn for a break and some photos.
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Asia |
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Break |
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One cheeky couple courting directly on the alley |
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The entrance/exit of the park |
We take again the seaside
boulevard backwards to some restaurants we saw earlier, since we are hungry
from the long walk we are having today. There will be a football game, because
there are quite many fans of Besiktas around the restaurants in question. Still
there is lots of time till the start of the game, since the fans are all normal
and sober.
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The staircase cafe
The tables are positioned on the staircase, as is the menu.
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A fan, who is not a fan at all
A cat in the colors of Besiktas is not interested in football at all.
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Fans are warming up |
We have some delicious
döners and rest a bit, till the food settles in at our love handles or other
fat depots. As we have walked enough and don't want to know how far is Taksim
square by foot, we ask the locals where and which bus should we take. After
some corrections of the bus stations and the explicit question "Will this
bus take us to Taksim square?", we get on the public transport pointed out to us.
We go around Besiktas stadium and I manage to recognize the place from 11-12
years ago, when I was in Istanbul for the first and last time. The road goes
uphill and if there is enough traffic one can watch the game, if he/she is on
the right side of the bus. We reach the square and having seen how many buses
there are, I think we were going to get here no matter which bus we got
on.
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Meet me next to the buses at Taksim square |
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Taksim square |
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The nostalgic tram Taksim-Tünel |
Our trip continues with a
ride on the nostalgic tram (our trip today is getting lazier and lazier) from Taksim to
Tünel station, where we should get on another funicular. The tram goes on the
otherwise pedestrian Istiklal street.
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The beginning of our nostalgic trip |
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In the overcrowded street |
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One of the many side streets of Istiklal |
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The gates of the prestigious Galatasaray high school/lyceum |
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Street belly dancer or something similar |
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Street musicians |
We get off at Tünel station and
I cannot remember whether we decide to go for a walk or think that the funicular
in question is in the opposite direction, but we go backwards toward Taksim
square.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 1
A tile worker or an artist among the tourists.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 2 |
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 3
Seller of chestnuts.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 4
Street musicians and their audience.
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At some point I feel that soon we will reach Taksim square, that's why we turn back the direction once more, towards the Tünel station and supposedly to the funicular. At least, there are so many stores, people, embassies and what not at Istiklal, that no matter how many time you walk there you will always find something interesting.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 5
Seller of the so delicious sesame rings called simids.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 6
Somebody's bike.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 7
Somebody's wife.
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The Catholic church of St. Antoine from Padua
Accidentally, we stumble upon this huge Catholic church.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 8
Also accidentally, we come across some demonstrators protesting against unknown what.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 9
Soon we come across the keepers of the law.
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As we have reached the
Galatasaray lyceum, which is way back and I'm not sure where the funicular in question suppose to be, we decide to have a rest at a café. By the way, I think
it is time to rename the Tünerl-Karaköy funicular to the Funicular in question.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 10
Thousands of Istiklal visitors from my favorite point of view – from above.
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Having rested, but already
rather tired, we decide to go back, sorry, I'm not sure where is back anymore, we decide to go to Tünel station, where we got off the tram and to continue to the Galata
tower, to have a look at the city from where, from above. One way or another,
the visit of the tower is included in today's plan, so with or without the
Funicular in question we will see it.
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Light at the end of one of Istiklal's side streets
Is this a shortcut to the Funicular in question?
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 11
Relax, this is not the Funicular in question.
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Istiklal and its visitors/inhabitants 12
Neither is this.
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Carinca |
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One of the musical instrument shops on Galip Dede str.
And the Joker smoking a hooka.
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Galip Dede str. |
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A train of taxies
It's on Galip Dede str., of course.
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We get to the Galata tower,
but it is already closed for visitors, so we are not able to have a look at
the city from today's most favorite point of view.
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Galata Tower 1 |
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Galata Tower 2 |
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Around the tower
The tower is a popular meeting or hanging out place not just for the tourists, but for the locals as well.
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A large flag of Galatasaray football club and probably two of its fans |
We reach the nearby Galata
Bridge (we are in the Galatasaray neighborhood) with its colorful and mainly
fish restaurants and the many fishermen. We cross the bridge and hop on the T1
tram, which unlike the Funicular in question, is where it should be and takes
us to the so wished for rest.
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The Galata Bridge and its many restaurants |
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The fishermen of Galata Bridge 1
There isn't a lack of enthusiasts, no matter what the weather and the conditions are like.
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The fishermen of Galata Bridge 2
Beer and a fishing rod – what else does one fisherman need. OK, a puddle as well.
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A view of the Bosphorus Bridge
The first bridge on the Bosphorus, completed in 1973 and 1,560 m long (almost a mile).
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The fishermen of Galata Bridge 3
Open air fishing stuff store.
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The fishermen of Galata Bridge 4
A view towards the New Mosque.
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The Galata Bridge from the other side |
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A fish sandwiches stall |
Some interesting wiki facts
about the Bosphorus – one of the theories about its creation states that 7,500
years ago, when the glaciers started melting, the level of the
Mediterranean/Marmara sea sharply rose over a period of several days and the
water made its way toward Black sea, which at the time might have been a
drainless sweet water basin; there are two currents – a surface one, in which
the water flows from the Black toward the Marmara sea, and a deep one, which
flows in the opposite direction.
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